Dior made history, cementing itself as the really first fashion home to host a seasonal style show in India. For the very first time ever, the storied French label showcased its Fall 2023 collection at the historic Gateway of India, showcasing the embroidery and workmanship related to Indian artisans on the runway. CNN notes that back in 1967, Pierre Cardin hosted a program in India which Yves Saint Laurent did the same in 1989 (Valentino done the same in 2004), but Dior’s on-calendar show wasn’t just a special one-off exhibition, it provided a chance for creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri to “highlight the partnership and friendship” between herself and Karishma Swali, the artistic director of the Chanakya ateliers and the non-profit Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai.
The program spanned a shocking 99 appearances and a lot of the ensembles were created in cooperation between Dior and Chanakya. Together, Grazia and the team at Chanakya worked to fit together Dior’s savoir-faire with the colors, themes, mirror work, sequins, and handwork commemorated at the school. The runway consisted of 23 Indian models, 33 Indian models with worldwide backgrounds, and 43 international designs. Cara Delevingne, Simone Ashley, and Naomi Ackie were all in participation.
” The choice of this destination is deeply linked to our shared history and passions,” Delphine Arnault, chairman and ceo of Christian Dior Couture, told WWD. “Our unwavering affinity with India, woven from the very starts of your house in 1947, and through the programs of Monsieur Dior’s different successors– from Marc Bohan to Maria Grazia Chiuri– has constantly been deployed in numerous innovative dialogues integrating innovation and ancestral heritage.”
Even the setting was deliberate. The Gateway of India is among the country’s most identifiable landmarks and sits across from the Arabian Sea. Other significant elements of the collection included Chiuri’s usage of rani pink– a shade particular to India– and jamuni, a particular purple.
” We have to acknowledge what is top-level quality,” Chiuri stated of showcasing the artistry of India. In other countries you can discover specific business that are couture level background, like Chanakya– they are a couture brand name.
” It is very important to commemorate the creativity of the artisans and the culture of India, while providing a modern flavor,” Chiuri said at an interview. “This collection is a result of all the efforts we have put into bringing this language to life.”
Chiuri discussed that she continued to include nods to Christian Dior himself to her work, mixing the heritage of the house with the history of Indian craft to develop something she views as modern-day and brand-new. Conventional Indian strategies consisted of tie and dye and zari.
” Each collection I wanted to make a crucial recommendation, the love of the flower that Christian Dior and his sister Catherine Dior had, and this flower was made with different techniques. This season this is spectacular, due to the fact that the school made a 3-D flower. It is magnificent, it is a piece of art, made with organza,” she said.
” In this moment we celebrated a terrific collaboration,” Chiuri completed. “And likewise extraordinary work that we did together. It is so crucial to commemorate the culture, the creativity that remains in this nation and the method we can attempt to move in the future. This is our objective.”